Exploring the Great Gardens of Cumbria from 1485-1603

As the Spring sunshine at last unfolds the bare bones of gardens display their structure to the  dedicated horticulturist.    This time is ideal for the enthusiastic gardener to visit gardens open to the public. 

 

  April's cold weather has put on a great show of daffodils and primulas too.

Many beautiful gardens open to the public during April.   Several in Cumbria have their foundations in the reign of the Tudor (1485-1603) and Stuart Kings(1603-1714).  

Dalemain Mansion, near Penrith, was purchased in 1679 by Sir Edward Hassell (1642-1717).   He was secretarie and chiefe officer Lady Anne Clifford (1590-1676), the last member of one of England's great medieval dynasties who became a legend in her own lifetime she fought a 40 year battle for the right to inherit her father's estates then devoted herself to restoring and enhancing castles and churches on her land.   Her castles were in both Cumbria and Yorkshire and included Brougham, Brough, Appleby, Pendragon and Skipton.

Sir Edward Hassell improved the grounds surrounding Dalemain by building a terrace, an orchard wall and creating terraced walks.   A sundial dated 1688 made by Robert Whitehead still stands on the terrace. 

Today you can see the remains of a small Tudor knot garden, the centre of the three beds are in line and now have been changed into a small pond.   The garden would have been laid out to reflect the pattern of the fretwork ceiling in the house.   Around it are the original brick lined walls and a gazebo is at the top of the High Garden both built in Tudor times.   

The house and estate has remained in the hands of the Hassell family ever since and the historic gardens are famous for the Dalemain Meconopsis grandis, the Himalayan Blue Poppy, and numerous varieties of English Old Roses.

Hutton in the Forest, near Penrith, is an extraordinary house of six distinct architectural styles spanning over 600 years.

Hutton in the Forest

William Nicholson (1655-1727), Bishop of Carlisle, visited Hutton on the 6th September 1705 and wrote:

"The House is over-run wit Rats, which eat all the Beds, hangings; but the gardens in very good condition; with several new plants from ye Indies, fair plantations of Fir, Beech, Elm, Lime trees etc."

The Kip engraving of roughly the same date as William Nicholson's visit shows that the gardens were "indeed in very good condition"

Kip Engraving of the gardens of Hutton in the Forest

Sir George Fletcher (1633-1700) added a classical facade to the central block of the house and developed the grounds.   One of the main functions of the garden was to increase the impact of the buildings, the avenues at the front of the house leading the eye to the newly built facade.   Kip showed how the gardens were laid out in a formal arrangement of squares and avenues, even down to the vegetable gardens on the West Side of the house.

The Dovecote was built in the 17th Century for strictly practical purposes; it was designed to provide the important source of protein - pigeon meat and pigeon eggs.    The Dovecot at Hutton provided accommodation for 400 birds and contains the "Potence", a revolving ladder, to reach the nesting boxes.

Swarthmoor Hall, Ulverston, is a fine late 16th century manor with delightful gardens.   In 1652 George Fox (1624-1691) came here as an itinerant preacher.   Judge Thomas Fell (1598-1658), head of the household, gave his protection to Fox's Movement.   The movement spread from this house to become the Society Friends - Quakers.   After Thomas Fell's death George Fox married his widow and came to live at Swarthmoor Hall.   His visitors included William Penn (1644-1718), Quaker and founder of the State of Pennyslvania in the U.S.A.

From the 17th century there were many Quaker botanists, botanical illustrators, gardeners and nurserymen.   Botany reflected the Quakers' respect for the care of the environment.  Plants were known to have a medicinal value and many Quakers became apothecaries, skilled in making medicines from plants.   The Gardens at Swarthmoor Hall reflect the long association with medicine and the effectiveness of remedies.

Levens Hall Gardens, near Kendal, were designed in 1694 and, because of the rural isolation of the County, far later than other formal gardens.   When Colonel James Grahme (1649-1730) inherited Levens Hall, in 1688, he was encouraged by his friendship with John Evelyn (1620-1706), diarist and gardener, to redesign the garden.    Acquainted with the work of Guillaume Beaumont (1650-1729) he requested Beaumont to help with the design.  As a result of the friendship of these three individuals, Levens Hall boasts the oldest and most extensive topiary garden in the world containing over 9 miles (14.5 km) of box hedging.   The 90 pieces are each clipped to an unusual and individual design.   The great beach hedge at Levens is thought to be an original feature of the 1690's layout and is 500 yards long and takes two people six weeks to clip each year.   There are many unique 17th Century features at Levens including Smoke House to where 17th Century smokers were sent when banished from the house.

Graythwaite Hall, West of Windermere, has  a 5000 acre estate on the shores of the lake. The Sandys family have lived at the Graythwaite Estate for some 500 years since the first Graythwaite Hall was built.   The family founded the Hawkshead Grammar School in 1585 and it was here that the young William Wordsworth (1770-1850) attended school.

Behind the house is a secret area that leads off the courtyard to a Dutch Garden - a rectangular garden enclosed with yew hedges and dominated in the centre by a tall columnar sundial.    The garden consists of a number of geometric shaped beds surrounded by low box hedges.   One of the most noticeable features is the double row of yew spheres, each comprising of two specimen - the top half of the globe is golden and the bottom half the normal green.

Rydal Hall Gardens, Rydal near Ambleside has an extensive 19th century formal garden but once you exit the garden and follow the sound of rushing water you come to a bridge and a tumbling stream.   A spectacular scene the water crashes and thunders through a series of waterfalls and a rocky ravine under the bridge and continues through the rocky banks of a small wooded garden.   Covered with mosses and native flora the banks give little foothold.

Under the bridge is a little building, one of the oldest grottos in the country.   Built between 1668-69 this little building is an ideal and picturesque place to see the dramatic Rydal Falls. 

Now is the perfect time to visit historic gardens, wander the vast estates and woodlands and enjoy the ambience.    You will find peace, quiet and tranquillity in Cumbria as well as dramatic views and vistas.